Sprinkler Questions, Answered

Absolutely. Whether AAIS installed your system or another company did, our licensed team is happy to inspect, repair, or maintain it — and we service all major brands.

We work on all major irrigation brands, including Rain Bird, Hunter, Toro, and Irritrol.

No. If your controller is in the garage, we just need prior arrangements to access it. See our unattended service policy below for details.

By scheduling a service appointment, you authorize our technician to assess and perform necessary repairs even if you’re not home, with standard labor and material charges applying. If you’d prefer to approve all work before it’s completed, just let our office know before your appointment.

Our technician performs a full system evaluation and basic adjustments, then discusses any repair work with you — regardless of size — and gets your approval before we begin. Parts and materials are billed separately and approved first. If specialized tools like valve or wire locators are needed, we’ll let you know ahead of time.

Most repairs are finished in a single visit — our trucks are fully stocked with the common parts. If we don’t have a part on board, we can usually pick it up from our warehouse without holding up the job.

A complete, code-compliant Rain Bird system: heads, valves, and a controller, proper zoning tuned to your water pressure and flow, and full backflow and code compliance.

It depends on the size of your system. Smaller jobs — roughly one to six zones — are usually finished in one to two days. Larger systems can take longer. We give you a clear timeline with your estimate.

Every new installation is backed by our industry-best 7-year parts & labor warranty.

We service every brand, but we install only Rain Bird because it’s the commercial-grade system we trust to last. Standing behind a 7-year warranty means using components we know will hold up.

Four main things: your yard size, the number of zones, the materials you choose, and site conditions like soil, slope, and access. We explain all of it before you approve anything.

Yes. You can start with a basic setup and add zones over time as your needs or budget allow — that’s a common way to keep the upfront cost manageable.

A backflow preventer is a device that stops outdoor water — which may be contaminated by landscape fertilizers and pesticides — from siphoning back into your home’s drinking-water supply.

Yes. We provide TCEQ-certified backflow testing and replacement to keep your system compliant with state and city requirements.

We do. If you have standing water, soggy spots, or runoff issues, we plan and install drainage solutions to move water away from your home and landscape.

Our winters are mild, so full winterization isn’t always needed — but around Thanksgiving you should cut back your watering schedule, and during a hard freeze it’s smart to protect your backflow preventer and exposed components. We can help you get set for the season.

Turning the system off at the controller works when there are no leaks and the controller is working. But if there’s a leak or the controller isn’t working, you’ll need to shut the water off at the source. Here are your options, from easiest to last-resort:

At the point of connection (backflow preventer). Your water source is usually near the meter. Inside the backflow box are two levers — it doesn’t matter which you close. Turn the lever 90° (a quarter turn). If a lever is old, rusty, or broken, don’t force it — it may stick closed and require replacing the whole valve. Call a professional in that case.

At the ball valve. Most newer systems have a ball valve out front, between the street and sidewalk, just downstream of the point of connection on the sprinkler side. It’s easy to use and won’t rust out — turn the lever 90° to stop the flow. If you don’t have one, we recommend installing one (no permitting or testing required).

At the water meter (last resort). If all else fails, shut the water off at the meter. This shuts off water to the whole house too, but it will stop water running down the street. You’ll need to turn the handle a full 180°, usually with a special key or pliers.

Common culprits are a controller with no power (check that it’s plugged in, the breaker, and any GFCI outlet), a blown fuse or dead backup battery, a failed valve solenoid, or a wiring fault. If a quick power check doesn’t fix it, give us a call and we’ll diagnose it.

If a single zone is out while others work, it’s usually a bad valve solenoid, a wiring issue to that valve, or clogged and broken heads on that line. We can pinpoint it quickly with our valve and wire locators.

Very possibly — a hidden underground leak or a stuck valve can waste a lot of water fast. Shut the system off at the source (see the question above) and call us so we can find and fix the leak.